Note that the compressor itself puts out 4 CFM or more depending on engine speed. I then soldered the hose barb to the cap, thus creating an adapter that works great for this application, not to mention constructing it for less than $50.00. When I got home, I drilled the cap’s center out with the proper drill bit and pushed the hose barb threaded end through. I went to the hardware store and bought a brass cap for both sides and a 1/8” thread – 3/8” hose barb. You can go to to order the NPT fittings for your system, but they were too expensive for me. The fittings on top of the compressor are not national pipe thread (NPT). With the bracket mounted and the compressor in place, I ran into another problem. I know if you try this modification that you may have a different scenario under the hood just be patient and think it all through. After fabricating the parts I used some high-temp Ford Blue spray paint to give it a factory look. I manufactured a bracket that utilizes the alternator spacer and a block bolt hole to allow the bracket to support the compressor. As luck would have it, I happened to have a dual pulley, so I figured that running a belt around the alternator and the compressor would be just fine. As the picture illustrates, I placed the compressor next to the battery and over the top of the alternator. Having the main parts to my system, I next needed to figure out where to place my compressor and how to build a bracket. I figured that the bracket would make a nice starting point for making my own mount for the compressor. I found one in a local junkyard from a Volvo and bought it with the bracket for $35.00. I decided to go with a York belt-driven compressor they have high output and are also cheap. Continuing on my checklist, a 12-volt system was just too darn expensive for me. Having the CO2 tank route strapped into my bed or onto the roll bar was out of the question since room is at a premium. I searched the internet and found all kinds of articles on how to do it – except for the installation on an early Bronco. any air tools, nail guns etc.) Deciding on the proper system for your application is always the hardest part. Having on-board air is not only a nice benefit to airing up and down tires but could also come in handy for a variety of other uses (i.e. I have a 3.5” suspension lift, a 2” body lift, and enjoy wheeling. If you feel an oily residue you will need to resaturate the area and towel dry it again until the oily residue is completely gone allowing a 24 hour drying time in between applications.This write-up summarizes how I put on-board air into my 1971 Bronco. After 24 hours, check the area again for dampness. You may need to repeat this process more than once depending on the thickness of the carpet and amount of brine liquid spilled. Doing this will pull the brine liquid as well as the water out of the carpet. If you are cleaning a carpet, fold the towel in half and apply pressure to the saturated area. If you are cleaning a hard surface such as wood, tile, or linoleum simply wipe the area absorbing the water and brine liquid together with a clean dry towel. By saturating the area the brine liquid will cling to the water, thus making it easier for the liquid to be drawn from the area. Secondly, apply a generous amount of cold fresh tap water to the area. The brine liquid will wash out of your towels or clothing easily in your regular wash cycle. Whether the surface is carpet, tile, wood, or linoleum. First, use a clean dry towel to soak up the excess moisture from the area.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |